I LOVE Japanese beauty magazines. They are great source of information on trends, products and makeup technique.  Yes, they are hard to find, and yes, they are more expensive than the US counterparts, but if you consider yourself a beauty addict or pro, you have to read them at least once in a while.  They offer you a glimpse into the Japanese beauty culture, an exotic world of beauty trends, secrets and insights.  These magazines are well worth the time and money you spend looking for them. I’ll tell you why:

• They are HUGE! Japan’s beauty and fashion magazines are on average at least 200 pages thick; special issues can get up to 300 pages. And they are big — A3 or B-size (roughly 11”x17”).

• They are heavy! Most of the pages of these magazines are printed on thick, glossy or high-gloss paper, so the pictures you get from them are amazing.  The thick glossy paper is also great for archiving (which I do).

• Mini mags included! Often there are extra booklets included in the beauty magazines. These booklets offer extra information on upcoming trends and product releases, extra beauty tips and guides, even mini cook books.  For example, at the beginning of each season, each magazine includes a booklet featuring the product lineups of all major cosmetics companies. So you can start planning your shopping list (particularly helpful if you have friends in Japan); or at least drool over the products.

• Makeup and skincare tutorials! LOTS of them. Not only they are step by step so you can follow along, they are often nicely illustrated.

• Product tests! Yes, a lot of times the magazines do product comparisons so you don’t have to.  VoCE runs a particularly comprehensive comparison series where they run 10 different tests on 10 different brands.  Of course, lots of explanation and photos for references.

• Goodies!!!! This is the BEST part of the Japanese beauty magazines. There are often some kind of goodies included in the magazines. Sometimes the goodies are product samples, which is great for trying things out or for traveling; other times they are swags from cosmetics companies. These are not cheesy pens or whatever, but often they are makeup bags, hair accessories (with styling suggestions and instructions included), or beauty accessories. I have also gotten reusable shopping bags, mini lunch totes/handbags, and a furoshiki, Japanese wrapping cloth. What’s even better is these swags a lot of times are collaborations between the cosmetics companies and famous designers. My favorite swags are all the Paul & Joe bags and accessories and the Moyoco Anno x Shu Uemura furoshiki!

My favorite Japanese beauty magazines are Biteki, VoCE and MAQUIA. You can find these as well as other Japanese fashion and beauty magazines at your local Japanese market. And for those who have trouble getting your hands on these great sources of info, I plan to start a series in this blog to feature each month’s highlights. Stay tuned for this month’s.

Ja matta ne! (See you later!)

Remember a couple of years back, Environment Working Group (EWG) and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) published a report on lead in lipsticks?  I was really happy to see that report and the spotlight it shined on cosmetics product safety.  It was definitely informative and eye opening…

However my frustration grew as I found the report did not offer guidelines, advice or suggestions for consumers on how to find “safe” lipsticks.  One of the report’s conclusions was that “the results do document that reading labels or spending more money won’t guarantee that you are protected from lead.”  As a consumer, my first reaction was, “Great! Now I just have to stop wearing lipstick all together… What’s next? Stop wearing the rest of my makeup?” (In case you didn’t notice, I am being sarcastic here…)

In response to the CSC report, Allure Magazine had a little write-up about the subject matter.  According to Allure, the amount of lead we would get from wearing lipsticks, even on a daily basis, would not pose as significant risk.

In September 2009, Campaign for Safe Cosmetics published a new press release citing FDA had done its own studies, and found even higher level of lead in lipsticks than the 2007 report.  What CSC didn’t mention, however, is that FDA also deemed the level of lead found in lipsticks pose no health risks.

So what’s going on here?  Are lipsticks safe to wear?  Are we going to get lead poisoning from wearing lipsticks?

If you’re a supporter of CSC, you would probably say wearing lipsticks (especially from certain brands) is bad for your health.  If you trust FDA and its findings, then you can continue enjoying a little bit of luxury for your lips.

My personal opinion is:

• While I applaud the efforts and intentions of CSC, I do think they tend to be a bit overzealous and employ a lot of “scare tactics” (with not just lipsticks or cosmetics, but personal care items in general).
• I can also see why Allure Magazine might want to debunk or downplay (depends on how you look at it) the danger of lead in lipstick.  Advertising from cosmetics companies are a good source of income for the mag.  If lipstick (or worse, makeup in general) sales drop because people are afraid, the advertising income will also drop.  But I welcome the opposing view and information.
• Personally I don’t worry about getting lead poisoning from wearing lipsticks.  May be if I was eating a tube of lipstick a day and living in China, I would…
• And remember you could be exposed to trace amounts of lead in many other sources, including drinking water and food, because lead occurs naturally in the air, soil, and water.
• That said, I choose to use lip products made with natural pigments and ingredients only.  I feel they are safer than those made with synthetic colorants and petrochemicals.  My philosophy is better be safe than sorry…

What’s your take on this whole “poisonous” lipstick matter?  Do you worrying about lead in lipstick?  Do you have any tips on how to choose safe lip products?

Magazine/Issue:  Allure / Body News (January 2010 issue, p.59) ~ by Kristin Sainani

Click on image to view full size.

Q: Can I mix skincare products from different brands/regiments? Or is it better to use a matching products from one brand or one regiment?

It depends. Most cosmetics companies offer different regiments (complete sets of matching products) for different skin concerns and needs, and they claim that you get better results when you use the entire regiment because the products compliment each other. While there are certainly cases that it is just a gimmick for the cosmetics companies to create brand loyalty and generate bigger sales, in most cases the claim is true. Especially if the products share a certain “star ingredient”, an ingredient that is the selling point of the regiment. You might get better results due to:

• You get more of the “star ingredient” because it is in every products.
• Other ingredients in the products might be designed to enhance the effectiveness of the “star ingredient”.
• The chance of the “star ingredient” reacting to other ingredients in the products is smaller.

If a cosmetics company does not group its products into regiments, or if there is no “star ingredient” around which the products revolve , chances are there is no real differences in effectiveness whether you mixproducts and/or brands or not.  In this case, use whatever that works well for your skin.

The bottom line is trust your skin and do not blindly buy into the whole regiment thing. Regardless what the companies claim, if your skin does better mixing different products from different brands, stick with mixing the brands.  If certain product in a regiment is not working for your skin, stop using it.  Your skin will tell you what it likes and what it doesn’t.  Go with what your skin likes.

I’m not saying I’m a Doll, and it has nothing to do with the 60’s novel or movie of the same name… This is a little fun I had with my makeup.

The look was inspired by Anna Sui’s 2007 Spring/Summer Makeup collection.  I’d always wanted to try it out with Beaute Mineral products, and finally got around to it…

So here’s how it went…

Step 1: After preping my face with foundation, I started with GN-200 allover the entire eye lid…

Next, I added GN-208 on top of the pale shimmery green, allover eye ball area, up to crease…

Step 2: More GN-200 was applied to the lower lash line and the undereye area, all the way to the outer corner of the eye.

Step 3: Using GN-208, I lined my lower lash line with an extra exaggerated line.  Now my eyes are surrounded by green eye colors.  More GN-208 was applied to crease…

Step 4: Next I applied RD-201 along lower lash line and blended it into the green…

Step 5: Using a small eyeshadow brush, I applied RD-200 to the brow bone area between the green color and my brow, extending the color all the way the outside of the brow bone.Step 6: Now moving on the blush color.  I applied CK-305 from cheekbone to temple with a blush brush, curving around the eye.  I also applied the color to the inside of cheekbone (the sinus area)…Step 7: To intensify the blush color, I used a foundation brush to press another layer of color onto the same area, especially on and around the cheekbone…Step 8: Finally, a bit of the CK-305 was applied undereye, layering onto the purple/green mix…  To complete the look I then applied mascara…As the final step, I applied lip gloss and CK-305 to the lips… and Wah-la!  It’s done!

And here is the close-up of the eye makeup…

I hope you have fun trying this look yourself!  All colors are available @ Beauté Minéral…

New year, new decade, it’s time to take up some new ways to take care of ourselves.  Since great skin is the basis of looking beautiful, let’s start with steps  to taking great care of our skins.

There are many ways and many things you can do to take care of your skin; but I swear by the basic regiment of  Cleanse -> Tone -> Moisturize.

Your skin is dirty — get rid of the junk… Daily

Everyone should cleanse her skin everyday.  Twice a day, unless you have EXTREMELY sensitive and/or dry skin (then you still should do it once everyday).  At night, before you go to bed. It always grosses me out when I find out someone doesn’t wash her face before going to bed.  After a full day of living, oil, dirt, dust, pollution and dead skin cells (which your skin sheds constantly as long as you breath) are all over your face.  Sleeping with all this icky stuff guarantees you dull complexion and/or (gasp!) pimples.  Wash your face before going to bed.

It’s also a good practice to wash your face in the morning.  That gets rid of all the oil and dead skin cells that are produced during the night, when your skin is repairing itself; it also clears way for a smooth “canvas” for better makeup application.

There is such thing as over-washing.  So unless you work in a coal mine or sewer and get your face covered with crap constantly, you should not wash your face more than twice a day.  Over-washing will dry out your skin and could increase its sensitivity.

Your skin is thirsty — use a facial toner

This is the step that most people skip, but shouldn’t.  55% of our bodies is water (60% if you’re a guy).  Our skin contains much of this 55%.  Water plays a huge part in keeping our skin healthy.  Think newborn babies: they all have super soft, supple skin is because, beside their cellular tissues being brand new, that as much as 75% of their tiny bodies is water.  Plants are also great examples.  Wilted plants, lacking water, are all wrinkly, lifeless and sad.  Well-watered plants are healthy-looking, supple and beautiful.  Ever had the problem of having dry skin but feels oily at the same time?  Most likely your skin is dehydrated, a.k.a. lacking water, and it is over-producing oil to compensate the dryness.

You skin needs water.  Drinking good amount of water helps prevent dehydration of body (and skin), and using a toner add water directly to your skin.  The key is NEVER USE A TONER WITH ALCOHOL in it.  Alcohol dries out your skin so it is counter-productive.

And what’s the difference between splashing tap water and using a facial toner?  Much like the difference between drinking plain, distilled water versus drinking mineral-rich spring water or vitamin water.  One hydrates, the other also hydrates… and supplements minerals and vitamins.

Your skin is hungry — feed it with a moisturizer

Moisturizers provide lubrication, protection and nutrients to your skin.  Moisturizers, which are made with oil or ingredients of oil-like properties, also seal in the hydration you just added to your skin with the toner.  Without the oils forming a protective barrier on your skin, water can evaporate out of it easily and quickly.

And moisturizers feed your skin with nutrients.  Different vitamins, amino acids, lipids and other components that aid in cellular repair can be found in most moisturizers.  Beside eating healthy and nutritious food , applying a moisturizer is the most direct way to feed your skin.

It’s all about the balance

Healthy skin depends on a the right balance of its water and oil content; cleansing gets rid of the stuff that is no longer needed or wanted.  Regardless what your skin type is, these basic 3 steps always applies.   Much like how your body works and what it needs, your skin needs:

• To get rid of waste and toxins (cleanse)
• To stay hydrated (tone)
• To be fed (moisturize)

So starting today, follow this simple regiment and take your first step towards great skin.

The second step to great skin is making sure to use the right products for your skin type.  More on that later.

Photos: PhotoXpress

Recently I came across some mineral makeup ads in magazines featuring “freshly shaved” mineral powder foundations.  Essentially it’s a pressed powder makeup with a built-in grinder to scrape the surface of the powder block, one thin layer at a time.  These “freshly shaved” mineral powders, offered by a couple of department store brands, are claimed to be better for your skin, to stay put longer and to give you smoother finish.

So are “fresh” minerals better for you?  Well, it’s a trick question… There’s no such thing as “fresh” minerals.  Minerals are inorganic, meaning they are not considered “live”.  While minerals oxidize (and that’s why you see all these oxides in ingredient lists), they do not deteriorate the same way and same rate organic (or live) materials do.  Mineral pigments harvested or made today, with proper storage*, are not different from the pigments harvested or made 5 years ago.  Try that with an apple or a piece of chicken…

But if you have to know, my answer is these freshly-shaved minerals are not necessary better than their loose cousins; and here is why:

• Better for your skin or not, it’s not about whether the powder is freshly milled or shaved.  It depends on the powder’s actual constituents – what go into the powder to make the powder.  If the powder is full of junk, fillers, irritating materials, or stuff that clogs your pores, it is bad for your skin, freshly milled or not.

• A foundation’s lasting power, again, depends on the ingredients and the skin on which the foundation is used.  Mineral powder foundation with oil in it on oily skin means that product is going to slide right off.  Oil absorbing powder formulas on dry skin means the powder is going to flake off and fly away.  It’s about choosing the right formula for the right skin type.  Nothing to do with freshly shaved or not.

• Powder particle size does determine the finish of the product: It is easier to achieve a smooth, even finish with finer particles.  And this is the claim that bugs me the most about these “fresh” minerals . The particle size has already been predetermined when the loose powder is made into the pressed form.  Scraping it or grinding it fresh from the prepackaged, pressed cake will not make the powder particles any finer than what they already are.

So my conclusion is, it is all gimmick.  While I applaud the companies for trying to find new ways to make their products distinguishable from the millions of mineral makeup out there, and I do find this grind-as-you-go form is a bit less messy than loose mineral powder, but that whole “better for your skin, longer lasting and smoother finish” pitch?  Well, it’s just a pitch.  Not falling for it.

By the way, YOU can achieve that same “fresh-shaved” effect with your existing mineral powder too! Find a powder jar with sifter and pack the jar full of powder as tight as possible by pressing the powder using a spoon. To use, shake the jar to loosen up, or “shave”, the compacted powder… Viola! Fresh “shaved” powder!

P.S.  Having the powder brush or puff sit in the compact, touching the powder constantly, is definitely NOT fresh…

*By proper storage, I mean just keeping them in a closed container so there is minimum contact with oxygen for oxidation to occur, and to keep dust and stuff from getting into the powder.

Everything time I see an Olay Regenerist commercial, I am always reminded of this:

If you’re a sci-fi or gaming buff, you would know what’s that was about…  Believe me, I have nothing against Olay.  In fact, Oil of Olay was one of the first skin care products I had ever used when I was a teenager.  I just am not sure whether the people behind the Regenerate ad was so brilliant, or Olay’s marketing department was completely clueless… Otherwise why would they come up with a product line called Regenerist:

Or packaging like this:

[gallery link=”file” columns=”2”]

I don’t think “zombie” is exactly the ideal association for a beauty brand…  After all, zombies are not very beautiful…

I came across this beautiful photo of Keira Knightley recently… It’s a shot from her latest Chanel COCO MADEMOISELLE ad.  And I thought, Oh my goodness, Keira looks hot!  And that’s one sexy shoot…

Then of course, the website that brought this photo to my attention had to put a damper on things (Thanks a lot, E! Online…)  They claimed that the Keira photo had been “worked” on, particularly her chest area.  They even offered a different version of the perfume ad, in which Keira has a shirt on, for comparison.

So yes, I checked it out and yes, I definitely noticed the size difference.  I have to say, I was delighted to find out they did the Photoshop enhancement because it was a relief to you know you can be sexy and beautiful without big melons — I’m still learning to appreciate what I call “ballerina cup-size” (because you can’t wear those tutus with melons.)

But at the same time, I wondered why… Why do they HAVE to make that enhancement?  Isn’t Keira in her natural form beautiful enough?  Why must they tinker with something that’s already so perfect?  The truth is, even if we were gorgeous like Keira, someone will still find fault in our bodies or looks, be it too skinny arms or too poofy hair.

A friend sent me this over Facebook:

I always knew that magazine covers and spreads are Photoshopped, but that was an awesome realization and reminder, especially that whole enlarging eyes and lengthening neck part… While I’m all for enhancing ourselves with a little makeup (or a lot makeup), we have to remember sometimes it’s the imperfections that make us perfect.  In Keira’s case, it’s her “ballerina cup-size”. While her enhanced photo looks nice, I’d much rather have her natural form.

I guess I’ll just stick with makeup, good skin care, exercises, and appreciation for our little imperfections.

Magazine/Issue: InStyle / WHAT’S HOT NOW (September 2007 issue, p.432)

“Parabens are one of the most ubiquitous types of preservative [in skin-care products],” says Christopher Gavigan, CEO of Healthy Child Healthy World (healthychild.org). “When they enter the body [through the skin], they appear to mimic the hormone estrogen, which plays a role in the development of breast tumors.” Gavigan recommends choosing paraben-free body washes, lotions and other cosmetics.

*************************************************************

Personally I think certain parabens are more affecting than others (“Paraben” represents a group of preservatives with similar chemical structures. While they are similar, there are different parabens used in cosemtics, some more toxic than others.) There is also a question of quantity and duration of application. Cosmetics companies are allowed to used up to 1% parabens in their products. Some companies use up to that 1%, others use much less than that. The higher the concentration, the more our bodies will absorb the chemical. And the longer the parabens are left on the skin, the more time our bodies have to absorb.

Ultimately there aren’t enough studies to confirm or dispute the harmfulness of parabens.  At this point, whether to use paraben-free products is really a matter of personal taste.  But if you want to be on the safe side, there are plenty of paraben-free products available on the market.

And don’t forget, parabens can be found in food too…

Here is a nice blog post about paraben by Kayla @ EssentialU (Kayla is the Chief Formulator of Essential Wholesale).

Updated Jan 03, 2010

Kayla from Essential Wholesale has a new blog post called The What and Why of Cosmetic Preservatives that explains the different preservatives and why they are used.  Great info.